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Calera: Pioneers of Californian Pinot Noir

August 30, 2024

Calera: Pioneers of Californian Pinot Noir

Perched high in the Gabilan Mountains of California’s Central Coast, Calera is a winery that embodies the spirit of discovery and dedication to quality. Founded by the visionary Josh Jensen in 1974, Calera, meaning “limekiln” in Spanish, takes its name from the old 19th-century limekiln found on the property. This historic site symbolizes the limestone-rich soils that Jensen believed were crucial for crafting world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

 

Meet the Visionary: Josh Jensen

Josh Jensen’s love for winemaking blossomed in the vineyards of Burgundy, France, at renowned estates like Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Domaine Dujac. Inspired by the limestone soils of Burgundy, Jensen returned to California with a dream: to create exceptional wines that captured the essence of this unique terroir. His search for the perfect vineyard led him to the remote, limestone-laden slopes of Mt. Harlan. Despite initial scepticism from his peers about the viability of growing vines in such a rugged and isolated location, Jensen’s passion and determination paid off. In 1975, he planted Calera’s first 24 acres of Pinot Noir, laying the foundation for what would become one of California’s most iconic wineries.

 

Mt. Harlan: A Terroir Like No Other

Calera’s vineyards are nestled at elevations between 2,200 and 2,500 feet, making Mt. Harlan one of California’s highest and coolest wine-growing regions. The combination of limestone-rich soils and cool marine air from the Pacific Ocean creates ideal conditions for growing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with remarkable depth, minerality, and complexity. This unique terroir was officially recognized in 1990 with the establishment of the Mt. Harlan AVA (American Viticultural Area), a testament to the distinctiveness of Calera’s vineyards.

The high altitude and isolation of Mt. Harlan result in a unique microclimate, where warm days and cool nights allow the grapes to ripen slowly and evenly. This slow ripening process is crucial for developing the complex flavours and bright acidity that define Calera’s wines. The limestone soils add a distinctive mineral quality, giving the wines a depth and elegance that sets them apart in the crowded world of New World Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

 

Exploring Calera’s Vineyards

Calera’s Mt. Harlan estate is home to several celebrated vineyards, each with its own unique character:

 Jensen Vineyard: The flagship vineyard, known for its diverse exposures and limestone outcroppings, produces wines with exceptional complexity and ageing potential. Named after founder Josh Jensen, this vineyard is the heart of Calera’s legacy.

 Reed Vineyard: The smallest and latest ripening vineyard, known for its exotic flavours and intriguing personality. Despite its size, it adds a distinctive element to Calera’s wine lineup.

 Selleck Vineyard: Located below a large limestone deposit, this vineyard is known for producing wines of remarkable depth and complexity, making it a favourite among collectors.

 Mills Vineyard: A southeast-facing vineyard with original Pinot Noir plantings, known for its balanced, nuanced wines that reflect the rich history of Calera.

 de Villiers Vineyard: Planted in 1997, this vineyard offers a distinctive dark-fruit expression of Pinot Noir, bringing a fresh perspective to the Mt. Harlan terroir.

 Ryan Vineyard: The youngest vineyard at the highest elevation, producing wines with robust tannins and layered flavours. Named after Jensen’s son, it represents the future of Calera’s winemaking tradition.

 

A Winemaking Philosophy Rooted in Tradition

Calera’s approach to winemaking is deeply influenced by the traditions of Burgundy, focusing on minimal intervention to let the unique terroir shine through. The winery’s innovative multi-level, gravity-flow design, envisioned by Jensen, allows for gentle handling of the grapes, preserving their delicate flavours and aromas. By using gravity rather than pumps, Calera maintains the integrity and purity of the fruit throughout the winemaking process.

Since joining Calera in 2007, winemaker Mike Waller has continued Jensen’s legacy, crafting wines that are elegant, balanced, and capable of ageing beautifully. Waller’s approach blends traditional techniques with modern innovations, ensuring that each bottle of Calera wine is a true reflection of its terroir.

 

Whole Cluster Fermentation: A Calera Signature

One of Calera’s defining winemaking techniques is whole-cluster fermentation, a traditional method that involves fermenting entire grape clusters, including the stems. This process introduces subtle herbaceous notes, enhances tannic structure, and adds depth to the wine’s aromatic profile. By incorporating the stems, Calera creates wines with intricate, layered flavours that express the pure essence of their terroir.

Typically, Calera uses 30-40% whole clusters in their fermentation process, a decision driven by the desire to produce wines with the structure and complexity to age gracefully. This technique is especially suited to Pinot Noir, Burgundy’s flagship grape, and has enabled Calera to highlight the elegant, floral, and earthy qualities that are characteristic of the Mt. Harlan terroir.

 

A Legacy of Excellence

Over the years, Calera has earned critical acclaim, with many of its wines receiving 95+ scores from prestigious wine publications. The winery’s commitment to quality has solidified its reputation as one of America’s premier producers, with wines celebrated for their elegance, complexity, and ageing potential. Calera’s story is one of vision, perseverance, and a relentless pursuit of excellence, resulting in wines that beautifully reflect the unique terroir of Mt. Harlan.

Whether you’re enjoying a bottle of their renowned Pinot Noir or their beautifully aromatic Chardonnay, you’re tasting the legacy of a true pioneer in American winemaking. Josh Jensen’s passion for limestone soils and his dedication to quality has inspired a generation of winemakers, proving that exceptional wines can come from even the most unlikely places.

Ready to explore Calera’s remarkable wines? Check out the selection available at 9 Elms Wines here: Calera Wines Collection. Each bottle offers a unique taste of the Mt. Harlan terroir—don’t miss your chance to experience these extraordinary wines! Cheers! 🥂




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